Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
